Bengal Kitten proofing your home

I have clients who ask me my opinion about getting a home ready for their kitten and what they need, and while I see lots of articles about how to prepare your house for a new kitten, and most of the are alright, there are a few things that commonly seem to get left out. So I thought I would write my own blog on what I think all new kitten owners should do, plus what you might want to ramp up because your Bengal is just a bit "More cat' than other cat breeds.

Preparation; you want to make sure you home is really clean, And I do mean really REALLY clean. Think like a new mom who just had her first child. The house should be not only tidied but vacuumed and scrubbed. The reason is we often don't spend time on our floors so we tend to not notice the things that have fallen under the couch, some men don't even move the couch when vacuuming. BUT that is one of the first places your kitten will investigate, and being a baby, he or she will be chewing on things cutting teeth just like puppies. This means anything that can fit into a kittens mouth is a choke hazard, no matter what the breed. The easiest way is to get down on your floor on your belly and look around, what do you see? Would you be willing to put your plate on the floor and eat? If there are fluffy bits around get rid of them, unlike kids or puppies who can just "spit it out" when we yell at them, kittens have supper rough tongues for cleaning which means they can not spit anything out that is hair like. Which is the reason they have hairballs. Less dust bunnies equals less hairballs and choking hazards. Look for things that are not designated cat toys on the floor like buttons or change. Also put away anything on shelves and counters that are breakable. Even if you intend to train your cat to stay off solid services in your house (yes it can be done, none of my cats are allowed on counters) But at first your young kitten will not know the house rules and will be full of energy. Especially Bengal kittens. My Bengal male was the first cat I ever had who actually broke a lamp.

Have a designated adjustment room; I usually use a bathroom for this. To your kitten, he hasn't been re-homed to his new loving forever family... in HIS point of view you have just come over and kidnapped him from his cat and human family and took in a huge noisy scary machine he doesn't understand (the car) and placed him a house with other peoples scent and in someone else's territory where he might be pounced on or attacked for being in the wrong place. So don't worry if you have a kitten who is shy or intimidated at first, they may take a while to get used to the fact that they are safe and welcomed. BUT for those who are shy it is an easier adjustment to keep them in a room where they can not hide under a bed or couch so that when you wish to pet them and show them love and that you will handle them with care they can not run from you. As soon as they show they are not afraid of yo and enjoy your company you can let them start to explore room by room. It is also a lot easier to keep one room totally vacuumed and the floor checked and make sure it is kitten, especially if you have children. And can give you time to get more rooms prepared and all the attractive nuisances taken care of before the kitten gets into trouble. It usually only takes 3 to seven days before you kitten has gotten over the car ride and wants to start exploring more of the house without running away from you. And then he already knows where his food and water is, and more importantly, where his litter box is, while he explores.

Have your kitty litter box ready; I see many complaints from cat owners about cats who are "terrible" because they won't use the litter box or they poop in their bed when they are gone... This is actually a sign of something the owner is usually doing or done wrong. You should have a designated litter box for EVERY cat in the house, and it should be cleaned EVERY day. Cats do NOT like to share their litter box with other cats. In reality cats outside never poop in the exact same spot twice, they may use an area, but not they same spot like we ask them to do in a litter box, they do NOT like walking over poop and especially someone else's poop. Would you? Another one of the reasons I like to use the bathroom as my designated kitten room is so that I can put the kitty litter box right next to the toilet and don't have to move it. I see people use all kinds of rooms for the kitty litter boxes, from bathroom, laundry rooms, mud rooms, spare guest rooms and even covered kitty litter boxes in a closet. The truth is your kitty litter box should be in a room that has a ventilation fan, JUST like it is code for every bathroom in your house to have a ventilation fan in order to get out not only smells and moisture, but ammonia from urination. And since a kitty litter box does not flush, it is even MORE important that your cats litter room have a vent fan so you can run the fan when changing litter and the fumes from Ammonia or the stink of the kitty going potty is present. Also it is helpful to turn it on an hour before any guests come in case you have become smell blind to your own pet's stinks. Any room that has a vent fan will do, so if you have a laundry that has a fan and you prefer that, it will work. The other reason I like having my litter box right next to the toilet is because it is the very first step to potty training your cat or kitten to using a toilet. Also, ask the breeder to provide you with the brand name of the kitty litter he or she is using and buy that brand first, since the kitty is in a new house, having smell that is familiar and that he is already trained to it will make using the kitty litter box automatic. And NEVER use clumping litter with a kitten. Only full sized cats are old enough for clumping litter, and even then it is not good for cats. because litter does get on their paws and then the cats licks the paws clean after using a box it does get litter into it's digestive system, and clumping litter can be fatal for little kittens.

Keep the toilet lid closed. Not just the seat down guys, the whole lid needs to be closed (here is where you can get back at your woman for nagging at you about having the seat up, you can nag at her for leaving the lid up). When kittens are little and playful they tend to jump up on everything to investigate, including the toilet. This has lead to incidences of kittens that need rescuing from a toilet, depending on how small and how panicked the kitten is, there is nothing to get claws into to get out if in a panic. This is advice for all kitten owners, however especially for Bengal owners, unless you have trained your Bengal to use a toilet, you will need to get used to keeping your lids down on a permanent basis. Unlike average house cats who leave the toilet alone Bengals on the whole LOVE to play in water. Do not be surprised if your Bengal tried to get in the shower with you or jumps in your bath tub. Any water in the house will do, even the toilet, they are very fascinated with it.

HERE is the one exception... If you do plan on training your Bengal kitten to use a toilet (which is not only healthier for the cat, but saves you a LOT of money in the life of the cat not having to buy kitty litter) And you have more than one bathroom and can suffer without one of the toilets for a while during training, you can make or buy a toilet pan to fit the inside of the toilet just under the lid and fill it will kitty litter (make sure it fits right and is solid and can not move). Keep the lower one on the floor as well as the one in the toilet in your new kitten room. this jumps you from step one (the pan on the floor) as well as skipping all the steps of carefully and slowly raising the kitty litter pan to get the cat used to stepping up, then hopping up and then jumping up, and goes right to the jumping up on the toilet. The younger you start this the better, because kittens are so naturally curious and do not have the knowledge that the toilet is just a porcelain bowl filled with water... they can be easily trained that it is a place to do their business. Then when they start using it you can take away the pan from the floor and follow your toilet training instructions ahead of the game. Still keep all the other toilet lids in the house down for safety until your kitten is big enough to get himself out if he falls in.

Put away any household cleaners and garbage; Again most kittens will not like the smell of cleaners and leave such things alone, but you always have that odd few who will taste anything, just like there are babies who put everything they grab straight into their mouths. It is suggested to place child-proof locks on all cabinet doors and drawers in your kitchen as kittens can open them easily. However, I have had several cats and the only one I have had open cupboards and get into them on a regular basis was an un-fixed female Havana. Un-fixed females tend to look for nesting sites more often that fixed cats or males. BUT even though my Bengal male does not get into cupboards, I have hear from a lot of Bengals owners that on average Bengals and any other Siamese crossed breed will tend to go for cupboard doors a lot. You should consider it more strongly if you are getting a Bengal kitten and want to teach them right away they can not get the door open so that you are not kept away with the thump thump thump of the doors being played with at night when the cat gets older. You should also make sure that either your garbage is in a cupboard that has a childproof lock on it, OR that you have a hefty sized garbage can that has a lid. Mine is stainless steal. This is a must for Bengals. Because they are closer to wild cats than other domestic breeds they have a tendency to raid your garbage if you have anything that smells interesting in your garbage. I have had a male rip right through my garbage bag as I was changing out the garbage, because he could smell chicken bones in it, trying to shoo off a cat who thought he was on the hunt while getting the bags changed around.

Block off any small open areas in the kitchens and Laundry rooms. Kittens tend to curl up in small spaces or areas. You should try to block off any small open areas, such as under the refrigerator, the oven, the dishwasher, and in between Washer and dryers if you have gaps big enough for a kitten to get into. Use a solid piece of wood to cover these areas or perhaps a very stiff thick piece of cardboard at least until the kitten has gotten bigger and used to being in the house and no longer spooky. Also make sure to keep your dryer door closed as kitten like the dark warm hiding spot of the clothes dryer. Always check all appliances to make sure your kitten is not in them before using them. (I know, it sounds like common sense, but you wouldn't believe the stories vets hear).

Have a designated hiding spot just for him; The best way to prevent your cat from scurrying into these small places, and to prevent bad behavior in the future, is to have a little box, or cat house that is fully enclosed that is dark and feels like a hideaway. big enough perhaps for a pet bed but small enough to feel dark and closed off from the rest of the world. Just like you your cat will want a place that feels like it's own space, where it knows when it goes in there it will be left alone. We all need time to ourselves to recharge. Cats that scratch and bite and act out of sorts usually are in small homes where the owner has not provided the cat it's own hiding space to unwind and relax. Of all the tips, this one may just be the most important one that will add enjoyment to the future relationship you have with your cat. Indoor-outdoor cats just ask to go outside and will have a place they have found and claimed to be their own when they get annoyed, but an indoor cat with no place to go can get grumpy. And since cat's are "Hairballs with claws and teeth", no body likes a grumpy cat. If you do not provide one for your Bengal kitten you just might find he has made one of his own by ripping a hole in the underside of your box spring and climbing into your bed.

Have a designated cat scratching post; This is important for ALL new kittens to start learning right away that he does have a spot that is Okay to claw so that he can leave the rest of your furniture alone. However, for your Bengal kitten, I don't recommend those little two foot posts that don't go anywhere, you will need a cat climber, and the bigger the better. Bengals have a huge need to climb as high as they can on a perch, and sit up tall and look down over their prey (toys) and territory. They also enjoy running up and down something they can climb on during play. Don't be surprised if your new Bengal kitten runs up your pants leg when he gets playful. But don't encourage it, it maybe cute when they are little and small and you have jeans on, it's not cute at all when they are full grown and you walk across a room in shorts on a hot day to get a cold glass of something. If your kitten climbs up your clothes simply take him off gentle and put him on his climber. (or multiple climbers, or a room full of climbers, depending on how close your Bengal is to the wild Asian Leopard cat).

Lots of kitten proof toys; Kittens have a lot of energy to get out. Just like toddlers kittens are awake and on full steam ahead 100% hyperactivity, or they are asleep, there are very few moments in between. If you would like to save your furniture, keep them away from areas like investigating counter tops, and other non-approved activities, make sure the kitten has loads and loads of toys, from jiggling balls to bat around, and feathered fishing rods and even laser pointers, find the toys each kitten likes the best. However, for Bengal kittens I recommend much sturdier toys than the average kitten, one of my female kittens could rip a cat specific made stuffed toys into pieces in minutes, especially the ones shaped like mice. I could only use hard plastic jiggly balls and even tennis balls for small dogs for her. Even the feathered fishing rods she would break in half. Bengals can play rough, get sturdy toys.

Food and water dish; This is the one thing most people think of without having to be told, but just in case, some time we focus on all the other minor details we forget the most obvious ones. You also need the food in the house before you go pick up the kitten so you are not stopping at a store on the way home and leaving the frightened kitten in the car because you forgot. My recommendation is to find out if your kitten comes with a sample of their kitten food from the breeder, if not go out and buy a small bag of exactly what they are feeding to the kitten. Even if you plan on feeding something different, it is important to start the kitten in a new home with a familiar smell. And also just as important to their digestive system that you introduce the new kitten food slowly. Start by giving them what they know the first two days at least, then mix in 3/4 what they know with 1/4 what you wish to give them for at least another two days, if there is no change in their poops go ahead and give them 1/2 and 1/2 for another two days or more, and again if there is no change then mix the rest in a mixture of 1/4 what the kitten was getting at the breeders to 3/4 of what you are now feeding him until all the reset of the breeders food is gone. Make sure it is kitten food and not cat food that is labeled "all life stages". this label is mis-leading and has lead to kittens having health and growth problems. Only Kitten food has the extra calcium that your kitten needs for his fast growing bones and overall health.

Secure all electrical cords; Your new kitten will likely try to chew anything that resembles a piece of string, including any electrical cords. Keep your kitten safe from electrical risks (and yourself safe from expensive losses) by securing all cords on the appliances in your kitchen, computer room, TV and gaming equipment and more. Do this by using an electrically safe tie around the cords so they are tight and secure behind the appliance. Try to hide all wires by zip tying them to the back of your furniture, and provide something else for kitten to teeth on, like an old cardboard box, Bengals especially seem to have a thing for chewing on cardboard. BUT make sure that if your kittens chewing habit are so bad that he needs the extra box to keep him away from other things, only let him have it during supervision to prevent swallowing card board chucks. Keeping your kitten well worn out with play toys is the best way to prevent chewing.

Take off the table cloth; If you tend to keep a tablecloth or table settings on your dining room table, you should remove them so the table is bare. Your curious new kitten may end up climbing up or testing the cloth and will pull down the cloth and all the dishes with it, which can end up in injury.

Remove any poisonous plants; If you tend to keep plants in the house, you should make sure they are not poisonous to cats. Lilies, sago palms, oleanders, rhododendrons, and castor beans are harmful houseplants that you should remove. Once your kitten is older and not into everything, house plants that are not poisonous should be okay, but if they are grown and still chewing on your plants it can cause digestive issues and vomiting. If you have a cat that just won't leave the plants alone buy him some cat grass so that he has his own plant to chew on. However, if you have very active Bengals, they may use your plants for playing "cat in the jungle" and really active Bengals and house plants just aren't a good mix for your nerves.

Buy a cat carrier big enough that you can use it when they are full sized. Buy your own Cat carrier. I'm shocked at the amount of people who come pick up kittens and have no cat carrier. you will not just need to come pick him up form the breeder, you will need to have a safe secure way to take your kitten to the vet. Or they have shown up with their miniature toy Yorki dog create. Which is fine when they are 9 weeks old, but cats are bigger than toy dogs when fully grown, and Bengals are bigger and heavier than your average house cat. Plus you put the breeder into a panic about whether or not you are going to be a good an responsible pet owner who will take your kitten to the vet for third second and third shots.

There you go, all the tips I can give you on what to have done BEFORE you go pick up your kitten, plus a few on helping them adjust. I hope you find this blog helpful and if you have any other questions about bringing home your new kitten. Please feel free to comment. I wish you and your new kitten a lifetime of happiness.